VPL

Whilst researching interesting silhouettes within fashion and also the ways in which unusual materials can be used to create such shapes, I was led to the discovery of the most recent work of London College of Fashion graduate and designer Victoria Bartlett, otherwise known as brand VPL. Her new collection for Fall 2012 is extremely inspiring in terms of using the shape of the body to work with and further the effect of her designs but also to reflect the silhouette within the garments. 

Within the collection, many concepts have been addressed and used as inspiration for the designs, and it is clear that colour combination, shape, fabric choice and diversity have all been considered to produce a vast collection that is so eye-catching and interesting. There is so much more to discover about every garment as you allow your eye to linger upon them and really consider how they have been made. A lot of attention has been placed, by analysts of the collection, on the use of colour and the concentration on light and shadow within the outfits and although this is fascinating, what is most intriguing is the structure of the fabrics and the shape and construction of each garment. The knitwear is perhaps the most interesting, with a huge amount of experimentation being shown with shapes that can be created within the knit and how the fabrics mould to the body; the geography of the body is said to be a strong inspiration to Bartlett. In the image shown, the asymmetry of the top half of the outfit juxtaposed with the mirrored structure of the shorts is perhaps the most intriguing and also the combination of tight fabrics and shapes that extend from the body. 

This idea of the challenging of the shape of the body is extremely fascinating and also relevant when considering prominent issues within culture today. In a society where it is possible to almost entirely change the appearance of ones body through the use of clothes and more extreme methods such as surgery and extreme dieting, it seems there are fundamental issues regarding the obsession with body image that should be addressed by the fashion industry. The ways in which Bartlett's fabrics contrast between those that are tight fitting and reveal the body, and those that are loose, and cut in a way that extends or hides the shape of the body is very intriguing and acknowledges, even if not directly, these issues. Some of the knit structures convey the bone and muscle structures of the body implying that the these structures are visible from the outside of the body, suggesting ideas of emaciation and issues such as anorexia. Body image and silhouette are an extremely important part of fashion design and provide inspiration and a basis for design, however it seems the fixation with this is having a negative impact on the self-acceptance of society and perhaps these problems need to be considered more within this industry.

However, it is undeniable that Bartlett has created a stunning collection with such attention to detail, from fabrics to accessories, and garments that work together extremely well but are also so dynamic and intriguing by themselves. As a knitwear designer, her combination of knitted fabrics and jerseys is similar to my own style and provides great inspiration for garment shapes and knitted textiles. And as stated at the beginning of this piece, perhaps the most fascinating part is the exploration of the silhouette and the cultural issues that her designs evoke. 

Junky Styling

It is rare to find a fashion label that is entirely sustainable and eco-friendly, even though many claim to be so. A visit to Brick Lane and to the fashion brand Junky Styling was truly inspiring and evoked thoughts about the practice of fashion and how it can be made so much less environmentally harmful if the right ideas are considered.

Junky Styling garments are all made from second-hand clothing of the highest standard that is deconstructed and designed into a new, innovative, one off piece. The garments are completely transformed and go from second-hand clothing to couture fashion and this process is something that should be followed by so many more figures in the fashion world. Not only this, the company have a part of their business called 'wardrobe surgery', whereby anyone can bring in a piece of theirs to be transformed. This itself is single-handedly tackling environmental issues within fashion, as instead of going out and purchasing something new, adding to the issue of over-consumption, a person can bring in something old and have it used to create something entirely new, giving the same sense of satisfaction that comes with a new piece, without the environmental impact.

Following the example that Junky Styling gives, and exploring ideas of recycling within design is a really interesting concept and can really make a statement about changing the way of the fashion world. Within knitwear, it is interesting to consider what could be deconstructed and knitted together to create some fascinating textures and fabrics. During this current project, ideas about shredding swimwear and knitting it together to create stretchy fabrics that hold their shape have been considered, and also even knitted old sailing rope together to create chunky, structured knits. Accepting a new philosophy about fashion consumption is what is needed, and although companies such as Junky Styling are working in the right direction, more attention still needs to be paid to the adverse effects that fashion is having on the world. Kate Fletcher states that as while reducing what you buy or choosing second-hand, recycled or organic is extremely positive and tackles the impacts related to the scale of conspicuous fashion consumption, it does little to influence its root causes. Society as a whole needs to become more aware that fashion is one of the main contributors to environmental issues through its production, transportation and disposal and that if it continues in the current way, we will be drowning in our own discarded clothes. 

Ara Jo - Spring Summer 2012

The work of Ara Jo is a huge inspiration within fashion and textile practice as she challenges common perspectives of what we define fashion and also how the body is represented through clothes. Although she only graduated from Central St. Martins in 2009, Jo is already popular with celebrities such as Lady Gaga and this is not surprising due to the uniqueness and innovative style of her designs. Ara Jo has been a constant reference over the last year when looking at ideas of restriction and body image in design and the image pictured from her Autumn/Winter 2009 collection shows a small part of an amazing collection. Jo's designs use the fabric to experiment with the abilities and restrictions of the human body and how clothing can effect this. They explore ideas of exposing and revealing the body, which is a prominent issue in society today with the emphasis that is based on perfecting the body and one's consciousness with the figure.

Ara Jo's most recent Spring/Summer 2012 collection furthers these ideas and tackles, not directly but it is clear that this is the intention, the problems with the negative influence that celebrity lifestyles are having on self acceptance and body insecurities. The collection is said to be based around celebrity lifestyle and appears at first almost a celebration of it, however the names of the pieces with negative connotations such as 'the overdose jumpsuit' suggest that the collection is attempting to raise awareness about the destructive sides of such a lifestyle. One could say that this is a very brave, yet positive statement to make considering the problems in society with the obsession with celebrity and attempts by young people to imitate them, with disastrous consequences. The concept suggests that attempting to achieve this 'perfect celebrity body' by drastic methods is dangerous and that self-acceptance is much more important.

The garment shapes themselves are also very innovative and inspiring, true to form for Ara Jo. There is contrast between very revealing garments and designs that challenge ideas about the shape of the body, as shown above. The colours are very bright with bold prints and type that are said to 'scream 'look at me''. This sense of arrogance that some celebrities have also adds to the negative influence that they have over young people. Celebrities are becoming increasingly arrogant, convincing themselves and everyone around them that they should be, and look like them. This is confirmed by the title of the collection – “The Super Egos”. P. David Marshall's ideas about our own self acceptance and how these relate to the influence of celebrity suggest that the body is seen as something to be altered to fit into the normative range of what is considered beautiful. This means that we do no longer compare ourselves to other human beings, but to edited, media enhanced images of human beings, that are not at all accurate depictions of how a body should look.

Boris Mikhailov exhibition - Tate Modern

Viewing a photography exhibition in the Tate Modern today proved extremely thought provoking about a subject that is perhaps overseen slightly in the education of young people today. The work of Boris Mikhailov is being exhibited in the Tate currently, featuring two photographic installations in one room. The most prominent one of the two is named Red, and depicts photographs arranged very particularly of Soviet Ukraine between 1968 and 1975. The photographs are images of Ukraine taken by the artist in his hometown of Kharkov and feature a wide range of subjects from the streets of the city to the people in it.

When the installation is first approached, the initial thoughts are immediately the prominence of the colour red in every photograph. The photographs are arranged on the wall in a very particular way which as you read the accompanying information you realise is very deliberate and significant. There is the colour red in every photograph, from very small, almost unnoticeable amounts to almost the whole photograph being red. Within the installation, the amount of red changes according to the placement of the photograph, with the most red being in the centre, to the lesser amounts around the edges. This creates a fascinating visual effect and draws your eyes simultaneously to so many areas of the wall, which can be a little frustrating almost but provides quite an overwhelming sense of intrigue. This encourages the viewer to really spend time looking at and understanding the photographs and the history and meanings behind them. Some of the photographs are very graphic and poignant and make the viewer feel empathetic towards the people who lived through some horrific conditions under the Soviet government.

One of the most thought-provoking images depicts a child waving the flag of the Soviet Union. His facial expression and stance convey him with an innocence and this is furthered by the appearance of a set of swings behind him. He is very young and one cannot help but wonder why he has the flag, but perhaps the most poignant element is the contrast between the innocence of the young boy, and the violence, horror and death associated with the Soviet flag. The other image that can be found particularly disturbing is that of a woman lying naked in what seems to be a net hammock. The net is digging into and restricting her body in a way that almost portrays a hock of meat that has been tied. The woman's face and head is not visible, almost objectifying her and her body as if she is unimportant and has no identity. This could reflect the millions of deaths that occurred during the Soviet Regime, in the way that the people were killed regardless of who they were, but simply because of what they believed or did. This is furthered by the violent nature of the photograph and the pain that the net looks like it must be inflicting on the woman's body.

The colour red is used in the photographs as a 'symbolic reminder of the unescapable presence of the Soviet Regime' in Ukraine at this time. Ukraine was developing well into the 1960s, improving its economy and industry in an attempt to rival the West. However this did not go unnoticed by the Soviet Union, whose main leaders in Moscow became concerned with Ukraine's ideas of 'localism', preferring local interests over all-union interests (Orest, 2000). The idea of Ukraine being economically self-assertive did not appeal to the Union, and so it set about making sure that the country knew where it stood towards the end of the 1960s, and so the cities of Ukraine experienced hard times once more. The Soviet regime was never far from the people of Ukraine's minds and this is portrayed in the collection of photographs by Mikhailov.

The installation brings forward ideas of colour significance and associations which are clearly an underlying concept in this piece of art and contribute to the dramatic effect that the collection has visually on the viewer. Even today, red is significant in Ukraine as it still has connections to Soviet times and the use of the colour is being heavily restricted by the government. It also conveys ideas of violence, passion and strength which are all very relevant themes within the subject of the photographs. It is amazing to realise the effects that simply the symbolism of a colour can have on an entire nation and colour symbolism is something that could be considered and explored much further.