DeMontfort University at Graduate Fashion Week

As soon as we got our tickets for the DeMontfort show, a monochrome graffiti style print coated in plastic and containing polystyrene balls, we expected hyper-modern textiles using found materials and brand new technologies. The students sent their collections down the runway, and that was exactly what we got. The collections from DeMontfort were so on trend for the upcoming seasons, making use of every material possible from plastic to acrylic to metal and putting them all together to create some outstanding looks that were in line with the trends of techno textiles and hyper-modernity that will be hitting London Fashion Week in the next couple of seasons.

The knitwear from the university was supreme. The work of Alison Woodhouse took so many neon tones and put them into designs that were wearable but extremely contemporary. Geometric pattern knits in every colour way possible were put together and combined with stuffed knits that had be plaited together to provide structure and a contrasting texture. The knitwear continued into menswear, where Clare Sant combined textured knits with clashing prints, and even a knit print that gave the collection a more delicate, lightweight edge in comparison to the chunky knits. The colours were predominantly primary and the prints were tribal, creating a fairly ethnic look that worked with the range of textures. Kelli McGuiness brought another new knitwear dimension with knitted hold technique dresses that revealed fun, quirky prints underneath; the combination of print and knit was popular at DeMontfort.

In contrast to the extreme textures and silhouettes of some of the collections, others evoked a softer, refined feel that concentrated on the intricate pattern cutting and panelling of the pieces. Amanda Salway's collection of Menswear featured exquisite Timorous Beasties style prints combined with delicate checks in pastel tones, with unusual sheer fabrics. Denim in tones of ochre and blue brought a new edge to the denim jacket. Nicola Froud continued with the pastel theme, with some interesting layering of skirts over trousers and interesting techniques of pleated fabrics appliquéd on to the front of dresses and jumpers. The collection had a sportswear style influence, but done in a very feminine way.

Lastly, the use of unconventional materials was something that stood out at DeMonfort on the whole. The collection from Charlotte Baty, featuring hundreds of cable ties woven into knit that almost looked like fur was stunning. Plastics were woven together in macrame techniques to create cuffs and neck details. Jade Clark used a whole host of reflective materials from PVC to organza that abstracted the prints beneath them creating a really unusual look. DeMonfort were very impressive in their creation of new looks and techniques and the collections were fresh and exciting.

Photographs by Dani Farrow