VPL

Whilst researching interesting silhouettes within fashion and also the ways in which unusual materials can be used to create such shapes, I was led to the discovery of the most recent work of London College of Fashion graduate and designer Victoria Bartlett, otherwise known as brand VPL. Her new collection for Fall 2012 is extremely inspiring in terms of using the shape of the body to work with and further the effect of her designs but also to reflect the silhouette within the garments. 

Within the collection, many concepts have been addressed and used as inspiration for the designs, and it is clear that colour combination, shape, fabric choice and diversity have all been considered to produce a vast collection that is so eye-catching and interesting. There is so much more to discover about every garment as you allow your eye to linger upon them and really consider how they have been made. A lot of attention has been placed, by analysts of the collection, on the use of colour and the concentration on light and shadow within the outfits and although this is fascinating, what is most intriguing is the structure of the fabrics and the shape and construction of each garment. The knitwear is perhaps the most interesting, with a huge amount of experimentation being shown with shapes that can be created within the knit and how the fabrics mould to the body; the geography of the body is said to be a strong inspiration to Bartlett. In the image shown, the asymmetry of the top half of the outfit juxtaposed with the mirrored structure of the shorts is perhaps the most intriguing and also the combination of tight fabrics and shapes that extend from the body. 

This idea of the challenging of the shape of the body is extremely fascinating and also relevant when considering prominent issues within culture today. In a society where it is possible to almost entirely change the appearance of ones body through the use of clothes and more extreme methods such as surgery and extreme dieting, it seems there are fundamental issues regarding the obsession with body image that should be addressed by the fashion industry. The ways in which Bartlett's fabrics contrast between those that are tight fitting and reveal the body, and those that are loose, and cut in a way that extends or hides the shape of the body is very intriguing and acknowledges, even if not directly, these issues. Some of the knit structures convey the bone and muscle structures of the body implying that the these structures are visible from the outside of the body, suggesting ideas of emaciation and issues such as anorexia. Body image and silhouette are an extremely important part of fashion design and provide inspiration and a basis for design, however it seems the fixation with this is having a negative impact on the self-acceptance of society and perhaps these problems need to be considered more within this industry.

However, it is undeniable that Bartlett has created a stunning collection with such attention to detail, from fabrics to accessories, and garments that work together extremely well but are also so dynamic and intriguing by themselves. As a knitwear designer, her combination of knitted fabrics and jerseys is similar to my own style and provides great inspiration for garment shapes and knitted textiles. And as stated at the beginning of this piece, perhaps the most fascinating part is the exploration of the silhouette and the cultural issues that her designs evoke.