Eerie music filled the room as everyone
prepared to see the final collections from the students of Edinburgh
School of Art. A model with her face covered steps on to the runway
and sets the mood for the first collection of the show. Jacob Birge's
collection headed down the runway with a sense of mystery but power
as his models walked with their heads covered by fantastic headwear
and showcasing his PVC cladded creations.
Themes running through the collections
from Edinburgh were that of structure and volume. How this was
achieved varied from structured fabrics to an overload of layering
but one thing was for sure, bigger is better. The students
demonstrated a love for a contrast in materials, combining leather
with flowing silks and tailored wovens with PVC panels and metal
accessories. The collection from Jacqueline McLardie in particular,
provided a host of stunning fluid prints with leather tops and
waistcoats constructed with panels of leather that looked almost like
an animals shell and gave the impression of armour.
Oversizing was another method of
achieving this volume. The menswear collection from Riona Horrox
combined unconventional materials into menswear such as fur and
oversized everything from shirts to huge puffa jackets that created
interesting silhouettes through the use of padding and clever
panelling.
The concepts behind the collections at
Edinburgh School of Art are clearly very interesting and the students
want to make an impact on the industry by creating collections that
are refreshing and contemporary. There was masculine womenswear,
feminine menswear and a unisex collection, playing on ideas of gender
and androgyny and creating a fascinating, diverse showcase of
collections.
Photographs by Charlotte Headdey
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